Alaia
Decided to go Native today and sampled Terry's Alaia - what's that? The original surfboards, more information check this site out - I wish I seen this before I sampled today to get some ideas on how to use this thing...
http://tomwegenersurfboards.com/html/alaia.html
Looked like maybe 6'6 x 15" (that's INCHES!) x 3/4" (INCHES AGAIN!!!), no fins and slight roll in the belly of the board. Here's some shots.
I managed to get up on one wave at ML, watching the vid clips on the website confirmed my hunch that the board needs a little push and some sideways wall. It doesn't float to good at 155lbs (maybe more w/ da holiday weight), I was up to my shoulders sitting on the board in the line-up. After seeing the vid clips, I want another crack at that board!
SURFARAZZI
I don't think we were that good this year because the surf was tiny and I didn't see too many Christmas boards in the line-up! The Alaia was one, and I heard Ron's daughter Chelsea had one as well - I could've sworn I seen her sampling that baby early in the week though... That's okay I did swipe some shots of the SO gang anyways while on Terry's SUP. No problem with the photos since it was overcast today.
No get too excited, all of these pics are two shots from the same wave!!! Was NOT consistent at all!
After I was wave starved on the Alaia and suck'n a Christmas Heine, paddled back out on Wes' PSH 10'6 wide and Ho-ho-ho - that was the board for today!
Mele Kalikimaka, malama pono - be merry and stay safe everybody!
Santa can't go up the Chimney this way :O
Nice Christmas Surprise this morning - waves!!! Nothing epic but a welcomed change from what we've been surfing. I had my camera in my pocket and wasn't going to snap any pics because of the glare off the on-shore chops but snapped some anyways, and as I guessed never come out good.
Which leads to some entertainment - guess who?
No more hair - is that Wes? No he no more paddle, Bob? - no too skinny, this one's Anthony, bad shot but I was in his way - stalling up so I can pass and get shacked!
Okay I don't think you'll get either of these and they're pretty non-descript - that's NewJ on the Right, Andrew on the Left.
How about this one...
Super skinny - is that Big Dawg? Well maybe not that skinny how about Lele? Could be Dwight but this one's Chica, you two guys still gotta keep working out to get that skinny.
Merry Christmas!
Last Challenge, I know choke Greenies will be going down, let's see if anyone can build a Christmas Tree! I think Wes could already... just stay safe!
Report
Surf was up in maybe the 2.5ft range, inconsistent butt more than welcome after what we've been having lately on the south side. Be sure to spend the holidays with family and friends tom'w... no need worry about the surf... I got it covered!
If I didn't see you today and or didn't wish you a Merry Christmas...It's not too late... Have a Verry Merry Christmas!
Some Humor
Here's a shot of some Home Depot staff getting into the holiday spirit.
There was another car as well that got the pallet wrap treatment.
And of course...
Waves: 1 - 2.5 feet
Wind: Perfect light offshores
SANTA DELIVERS!!! Nice bump on the South side with perfect conditions - thanks Santa! We definitely had a 'Holiday' atmosphere in the water with everybody and their cousin out. Just a beautiful day to be in the water.
God's gift to us - a beautiful sunrise everyday! Just think 99% of the people who live here NEVER see this in person.
Special Bonus - Breakfast on the beach brought to you by New York Life. Miles and Eric prepares a fantastic cooked to order breakfast for everybody. Awesome!!!! Huge Mahalo!!!!
Two Chefs who rip.
Eggs easy over on top of special breakfast mashed potatoes with Portugese sausage and homemade toast. Killer!!!
Countdown to Christmas - 1 more day!
Merry Christmas everyone - I'll be home enjoying opening presents with Dawn and Dora. Enjoy the surf!!!
Ran down to Ewa this morning looking for some of Jonny's WRAP. Started off at Hao Bush and was staring at the water for a good 20 minutes before I seen a wave break - a set of 5 chest high waves, only thing is that 6:30am already had 10 guys out and by the time those waves broke already had 15 with another 10 getting ready to go... absolutely nothing broke in between.
Tried White Plains next and visit Kim to wish him Happy Holidays. Same story there too took 20 minutes for a wave to break another set of 5 waves but had easy 30 guys in the water and more people just kept coming. Again no waves breaking in between the lulls. At least White Plains 3 people can ride a wave easy, but still, if I were to surf either of those Ewa spots, I'd just asking for trouble.
Had to go my office Christmas Party at the Prince Court so I never have time for a session at Rest Camp which I was sure would be crowded too. So instead I ran home grabbed my Party Clothes and surfed town. Surfed Pt from 8:30-ish to 9:45, it was small but lining up long. Then came crowded/junk and I had another hour to kill so I paddled over to ML and it was glassy and breaking long (but really weak) - then it happened, from 10am to 11am consistent waist high waves came through. By 11am came crowded (I must've made it look too good) and the onshores picked up.
No get excited, I tried to Re-Session at 2pm after my luncheon, barely breaking and very on-shore.
I was just stoked to catch a lot of long rides in some empty surf (I actually never sat still very long - had enough waves for 2 people). PrinceCourt buffet was okay, nothing spectacular. I also won a $25 gift card to each PF Chang and Outback along with a big bottle of cereal mix and a Bath and Bodyworks Bath Kit(?)... not too shabby... maybe I shouldn't have blog'd it, now no can re-gift - hahaha!
I went down to home base to check out the bump! What bump you ask.... that's what I said. Only thing I got was a new banner pic.... trying too copy Courtsdawnpatrol but not quite there yet. maybe tomorrow we'll get some wrap? Or will only be Christmas Wrap?
East Report
Ran down to the east side today. Drove out to Kualoa and Rainbows, only waist to head high and mushy. Morning sickness, winds were side to offshore from the Northwest. Down the coast looked much bigger, just a bad angle for that area.
I'd like to think I'm older and smarter since rushing Razorback's and so I went down to Lanikai. Wind felt like light offshore when I took a peak down one of the beach accesses and the waves were breaking, but conditions looked onshore. I grabbed my board and headed out, and the wind was onshore. I paddled out anyways and the chop was pretty wild and surf was head high to overhead. I was kicking myself for not bringing the leash.
Anyways winds changed and backed off to northwest and then down to nothing and so did the waves? I paddled in, the air was maybe 82 degrees, the water a refreshing crisp 72 degrees, I just wanted to lie out and drift on my SUP in the inside reef.
Didn't mind though it was outright GORGEOUS, the air was maybe 82 degrees and humid, the water a refreshing crisp 72 degrees, white sandy beach, crystal glassy water, college girls... paradise found!!!
Dumb Post - I'm a 25y/o College Student
Brings us to my dumb post... it's been a while.
I pulled myself from the water after lounging in it for about 10 minutes because I had to go home fix a leaking faucet. Smiled at the college girls, wanted offer SUP lessons, but headed to the truck. Put my board down on the bed and noticed I was being PRV'd from the beach accessway.
I always tease people about not having game... so here's da pick up line I used,"A picture may last longer, but mammories (memories- for jonny) are forever." And then I walked across the street.
5 girls, between 19-22, 2 sisters a cousin and 2 friends. Graduates of Kalaheo, attending Fresno, UOP, SJSU, UH, WCC. So I introduced myself as a 25y/o Kailua resident, a Kam grad, attending USC for his masters in engineering home for the holidays with a brand new SUP xmas present from his parents to try and keep him home.
So I asked them if they wanted to ride my board (gotta throw something corny out there). And they blushingly said "Yes." I only remember Crissy, she was a Japanese/Pocho mix in a black bikini with C's. I told them I had to go check my phone for messages and she followed me to my truck. She ran her hands on my board and said, "That's a nice looking board. It's big." while I "checked my messages" and said I had to go but if I saw them around town I'd buy them coffee.
They were bummed... oh well I could've had a VERRY Merry Christmas...
Waves: Tiny
Wind: Perfect
Still small but at least it's not smaller than yesterday - it's 'holding' at 1/2 a foot. Wes and I went to Concessions where the waves were plentiful and rides long.
Countdown to Christmas - 2 days!
It's been a while for what? Christmas? The coming Blue Moon? Waves on the South Shore? Or Jonny making a post... Well maybe a little of everything. For sure my camera's shutter might be frozen shut by now.
